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30 June 2009

Burtyatia school - Mikhaylovka


Mikhaylovka is 1200 inhabitants. About 500m from the main highway, the village is more or less surrounded by a cow gate, so the cows are kept in the village. Two roads have asfalt: the one from the entrance and, prependiculary, one connecting the school to the "club". Other roads are made of dirt. All roads have cow shit around. At one side of the village runs a river, 25km long at that point, with clear water were kids swim in the summer.
The school has kids from 6 to 18 years old, about 180 of them and 40 teachers. Twelve graduated this year. The school reminded me of and old primary school. There were two old sport fields, one concrete for basketball and other grass for other sports (volley, football, fight, etc). The toilets were outside, a barrack with 5 holes for boys and 5 for girls, no separation between holes (only between sex). There was an anfitheatre were we saw a ridiculous graduation cerimony with teachers, parents and students, each group at its time, singing and saying bad memorized poems. There was also a canteen, looking again from a very old primary school.
At the middle of the paved road it was the commercial centre with three shops. One was shut, other almost and the survival one sold basic things, mostly in big quantities.
The sum was made using abbacus (we saw this multiple times all around Buryatia) and there was a credit notebook. The other edge of the road was the "club" which comprised a gym/auditorium/theater, a kitchen, a small room and a library which was closed most of the time (even if the timetable would not say that). It seems there was also a projector room but it was broken. The library had some hundreds of books, 2 computers and 2 paid internet kiosks used by no one. They had no money to buy new books and were living of books donations. There were no english books.

A kindergarten and 20 sheeps were in front of the "club". The village administration building was also on this road, a small one floor house with repainted offices, couple of computers, no internet. The village had also a post office else where.

Makhailovka houses were made of wood with, sometimes, colourful roofs and windows. Each had a garden with banya, some cumcumbers, potatoes, a dog and toilet - small barrack with a hole. Our home garden also had two pigs, and others had cows stable. There was electricity with fluctuating current, telephone and TV. No radio signal was received here, nor mobile phones worked. There were water stations across the village with mechanic pumps taking water from couple dozen meters below.

Houses had usually a summer kitchen, not so insulated part of the house, with an electric stove, a table and several small buckets for all kind of purposes (milk, washing dishes, dirty water, clean water, etc). There was also a hand wash basic, which we would fill with water and with a small lever we could wash the hands. The used water would go to a bucket below. The next room had as central piece a wooden stove used mostly in the long winter and, depending on the house, more or less separated spaces with boards or vertical hanging carpets.

Our house in Makhailovka had a light courtain door to our room, where there were two beds. One wall was cardboard up to 30cm from the ceiling and two others were outside walls. There was a small winter kitchen were the cooking part of the big brick made wooden stove was; a living room with a TV, a buddha corner some books and pictures and, behind some cupboards, it was the other room of the house with a double bed where the daughter and sometimes also the mother slept. Our host family had a quite big banya building where in the first room they stored the pig's food and the second room was the banya itself with the iron made wood stove with hot water container and stones for steam. The room had dry side to sit and wet side to wash, where the wooden floor had holes. The toilet was about 50meters from home. For us they bought toilet paper but usually they used newspaper. Our family had a second house ('house there' - дома там) where mother and step-father would stay and where they milked their cows.

Our host family was composed by Lisa, the library responsable; Valery, her second husband; and Irina, daughter of Lisa and student on the 3rd year of English-Chinese studies. Her english, however, was like a high-school student in Europe.

English was one of the most amazing things people, including young, did not know. Among the graduated students that year from school only one would be able to articulate some sentences with very limited vocabulary. Other amazing thing was the alcohol available in the schop and the amount of chronic alcoholic one would cross in the streets of so small village.

During our stay once we had a young alcoholic guy who did not believe we were living there and wanted to force us to go to his place. His girlfriend shouted to him to leave us but he ended up to enter our house and sit down until we found Irina who explained him what we were doing there. He drunkly apolagized himself. Other time a very drunk old men, in need of vodka, followed us asking for money until we got home. Kate had to stay a while with us until he left. Cheap vodka costs one euro the bottle!

People are in general small for European standards and seem 10 to 20 years older. Life expectancy is around 60 years old. The oldest people in the village was a couple - she 95, he 94. Retirement age in Siberia is 50 for women, 55 for men (in European Russia is 5 years more).

People's diet was dased on dairy products and meat. From the milk they would do several products - cheese, kefir, tvorak, vodka. The meat was mainly boiled in a soup or mashed and put in 'buuzi'/'pozi' (Buryati/Russian), the Buryati national dish. To drink was always tea with milk and the table was always with cookies, candies, sugar and home made bread. Cumcumber, radis and cabbage where the vegetables found on the shop and planted at home. Eggs and potatoes and apples were also easy to find (most people had potatoes field in their garden).

On our arrival to Mikhaylovka the head of the administration received us in local costumes giving us milk to drink from the left hand - milk is symbol of cleaness -, a cloth with traditional drawings and a glass of vodka over a bank note (of about 1 euro), which we should keep for luck. This vodka ritual was repeated several times during our stay. and as soon as our glass would be empty they would refill. Soon we got to know that we are not obliged to drink and the only mandatory elements of the tradition is to accept and touch our lips at the end of the (long) toast.

While in Mikhaylovka we participated to two annual summer parties called Sur-Harban. One on the village level and the other on district level. It happens in a big green area where they built a stage. On the stage people sing and dance. There are sport competitions of wrestling, volley, rope pulling and a horse riding race. All ages participate on the wrestling competition and the aim is to make the opponent to fall or to lift him up from the ground. Some drunks also take part. The volleyball is for school ages. Around all this there are people selling 'buuzi' and tea and couple of shop-cars selling either food, clothes or ustensils. The party lasts all day and big part of the village participates. Jurgen tried some judo class and I organized a garbage hunting game. Both did not have much success.

On the district Sur-Harban 40 villages were represented, each with their own yourt, also part of a beauty competition. As honorable guests we made a tour of couple yourts where always we were offered food and vodka. Once, however, we had the most distingable honor with means 'sheep head'. See Eva's entry about this.

The shool in Mikhaylovka was a success. Children gave us several 'thank you' drawing at the end. About 15 children from 8 to 14 participated regularly. One day some more come from a summer camp in a nearby village. With the usual more than 30 minutes delay (usual in Russia, trains excepted) we started with english class and games, then Eva gave a health class with some painting session, I gave a children rights class. After we follow with some judo, aerobics and journalist class. In the evening more aerobics. The second day of school was similar, small re-arrangements in essay to keep children more active and focused. A dip in the river followed. Last day we organized a treasure hunt around the village with questions broken-up in separate locations and questions about our classes and about us. Children run it all for 40 minutes in two teams.

After this we left to Engorboy, not before having one more pic-nic with the head of administration, our host families and white wine (there were drivers). It was then a 3-hour drive in mostly non-asfalted road.

24 June 2009

Buryatia Experience Part 1: Departure from Ulan-Ude and arrival in Mihailovska

As most of you already know, we decided to participate in a volunteering project organised by a young russian student from Moscow, but originally from Buryatia which is a republic in southern Siberia. We were going there to teach something to the school children there, and also to experience their way of life.

The departure from Ulan-Ude was scheduled for the 24th of June, 6:30 am. All we knew was that we were supposed to go in a minibus. We still didn't know that we would experience the real russian way of travelling....

We were a group of 5: Kate from Canada, Juergen from Austria, Ayuna the organiser from Moscow, and the 2 of us.

Actually, to get to these remote places, a few minibuses leave every morning from the bus station. You just go there, wait, and when a bus arrives, jump inside to get a seat. As we were a group of 5 with quite a lot of luggage, we were supposed to have 5 seats reserved in one of the buses, which was supposed to pick us up at our hotels. But it didn't turn up, the driver had decided to drive to the train station... So we ended up waiting for an hour at our hotel, being driven to the bus station and waiting there for another hour or so. Finally, our driver turned up and we got our 5 seats. This was already a good example of how things work here. Don't plan ahead or you'll be disappointed....

After one hour we alreday stopped for "lunch" (it was 10:30 in the morning) and then drove for another 4 hours non-stop. Of course there was the usual drunk guy who was a bit annoying, but he fell asleep after some time and we didn't hear him anymore. It was a very scenic drive, the landscape becoming greener and hillier, with meandering rivers and a few small villages. Once there were cows on the street, once there was a group of running horses, and once the driver almost ran into a group of men who were doing repair work on the road.

At some point we arrived at a checkpoint. This being a border region, we needed permits to go there and our passports were checked (which consisted in writing down our names and a phone call to the boss, without noticing that Kate didn't have her visa with her). When the passport procedure was over, we were told to get out of the bus, this time for a welcoming ceremony by the head of administration (Svetlana) from the village we were going to (Mihailovka), which consisted in some chanted speech in Buryat, offering a spoon of milk (white foods are supposed to have a "cleaning" function) and the handing over of a coloured scarf. During the whole time, the other passengers waited patiently.

When we arrived to the village, we were introduced to our host families, who all lived in very tidy wooden houses with big gardens and a banya. We immediately got food, and then had a good wash in the banya.

The village had one asphalted road, the others were non-asphalted. Cows were wandering and grazing freely in the village. All the houses were wooden, often with colourful windows. No house had individual water pipes. Every street had its water pump station where people went to get water. Toilets were outside, "hole-in-the-floor", often far in the garden, but clean. Our family also had a few pigs, two dogs and a small potato field behind the house. The main foods are milk products, cow's meat and potatoes. Almost everything is produced for self-consumption, hardly anything is sold. Life seems very simple there. I also noticed a strong, mainly female community, with all kinds of activities (library, dance group...). All in all people seemed very happy there.

23 June 2009

Ulan-Ude

This must be one of the cities where we've stayed the longest. We arrived on the 18th June, in order to prepare and relax before going to our volunteering "project" in the deep countryside (we will leave tomorrow early morning). So we've had quite a lot of time to spend here. The weather has been everything you can imagine - from 5 degrees rainy almost snowing to over 20 degrees sunny. We have spent quite some time on the Internet (you might have noted a few new posts and photos...), sleeping incredibly late every morning, wandering around the town.... and trying to survive the Russian restaurant- and cafe-food. Our breakfast was different every morning, prepared by our violet-haired landlady, and included fried eggs, hard bread with misterious meat spread and tomatoes, kasha (some kind of Russian cooked cereal - we had the version with about 200g of butter each...), blini (pancakes) and omelette. In cafes it's usually meat with or without something else. Salads are some cooked vegetable with a lot of mayonnaise. Soups are nice but with a lot of grease on top. So, not surprisingly, my stomach started to strike after this mornings 2 portions of omelette (2 portions because I ate Miguel's) and only started digesting several hours later, after a mini-sandwich of herring and a big cup of muesli and yogourt (bought in the supermarket). Let's see how this goes in the deep countryside...
Otherwise, it has been a bit boring but very relaxing to spend a few days here, often not doing much. We still have visited a big buddhist Datsan, a very colorful heap of painted temples and wooden siberian houses. Afterwards we walked a bit in the village, and seeing an interesting-shaped hill we wanted to hike there, but we were stopped by 3 men in a car. We finally understood that we could not go there because it seemed to be a place reserved for men and women were not allowed! So, we went back to the bus stop, on the way passing a drunk guy who apparently wanted to change some Rubles for "Deutsche Mark"....
One day we also decided to visit the History Museum. It was raining and cold, and our landlady really wanted us to go there. So we paid for 2 of the exhibitions, one about Buddhism, the other about Buryat history. Well, some of the exhibits were quite entertaining (especially the ones about Tibetan medicine), but otherwise it was the usual Russian museum experience: underlit rooms, water dripping from the ceiling into buckets, all kinds of objects shown in the same showcase (but there were english descriptions!). Not such a bad place to spend an hour or so.
Tomorrow we'll be off into the "Russian Wild" until the 7th of July. I'm sure we will have stories to tell and pictures to show!

21 June 2009

Pictures of people

Better than landscapes pictures are people pictures, mostly of people doing their job, if they work in a colourful fruit shop, or are the host of our train wagon, or just if they are on the street with a nice or different style. While I usually try to make pictures of these people 'en cachette', it would be much better just to announce myself and ask if I could do a picture of them. Couple times I've tried but people are ashamed and say 'no'.

Have you ideas, experience how can I make pictures of people with their agreement or should I just stand as a journalist and picture them?

20 June 2009

La cuisine Russe


L'image la plus habituel qu'on a trouve quand on a propose de faire la cuisine chez quelqu'un que nous a heberge. Oui, ca c'est la table de la cuisine. Et il n'avait pas de chaises, ni couteaux a manger. Mais cette fois il avait du detergent a vaisaille. Et oui, ca c'est avant qu'on a posse nos choses!

Two weeks away

From Tuesday (or Wednesday) next week, that means 23/24 June and for two weeks we will be in the yellow pins marked on the map above. we will be there participating on this voluntary project in two Buryati villages near the Mongolian border, where most of the children never saw foreigners. 

Eva will try to give some basic health and hygiene ideas and I will try to raise their wareness about human and children rights. Maybe doing some BodyCombat if weather and conditions allow (if there are speakers, CD player, etc). Today we already met Jurgen, an Austrian guy who will be teaching some Judo. There will also be Kate, a Canadian girl and Ayuna, a Moscovite which is also Buriaty and will be translating and organizing things. 

So, when I mean by away, is because we believe there might not be internet there. And mobile phones seem not to work (following our research on the russian operators webpages).

Web page of this volutary project is: http://buryatiasummerschool.narod.ru

Ulan Ude market


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Originally uploaded by eva_p
This is our first day in Ulan Ude. Raining, cold, windy (it could almost be snowing). This picture was taken at the end of the day, when the market sellers were already preparing to pack up and go.

Train stops 2


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Originally uploaded by eva_p
This is just one of the many ladies that wait for trains on the platforms in small train stations, to sell their food to the passengers. I liked the hat of this lady :-)

Moscow time

Now is 7:30am, Moscow time. This is the only time we can see if we go to Ulan-Ude's train station, at all the screens, all the clocks, all the guichets.

In Russia, like many other things, also the trains run as Moscow. In this case using Moscow time. It means that, when we are in Ulan-Ude, where now is in reality 12:30, and use the machine to check train timetables, all the times that appear have a 5 hours decallage. So if we want a good train to leave from here in the morning, let's say, between 9 and 12, we should look for trains leaving between 4 and 7am. Then if we want to arrive to Vladisvostok, which is MT+8, we have to pay attention that trains arriving later than the 16:00 in the computer, means they arrive later than midnight, local time.

But which makes things more crazy, is that usually the ticket windows have a strict timetable, each window a different one. Example: opens at 8, closes at 18, lunch break from 11 to 12, technical break (or pissing'n'smoking break) from 10 to 10:15 and from 15:15 to 15:30. BUT... these are MT - moscow times. So let's make the conversion and hope, that after your 30 minutes wait in queuing you do not hit one of the break times and have to wait a bit more. Or else just do like Russians, look at timetable of all closed windows, check which one will be open soon and just queue there.

Well, we already found that is easier to buy ticket on the internet (with help of a Russian person) and then just go and pick at the station, where they are creating special boths only for this. But no one knows about them, not even at the station (as we realized in Omsk), so you just have to go around and discover yourself where they are (usually in the service center which works from 9 to 17... MT).

Ah, also the dinning-car in the trains have a timetable, Moscow time we believe. But not always specified and we did not try them yet.

The picture on the bottom is the train timetable which we find inside the train we are taking. This timetable had two columns, it was a 5 nitghts train from Moscow to somewhere really in the East. We just did about 24hours, from Omsk (Омск) to Krasnoyarks (Краснояск).

Train stops


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Originally uploaded by eva_p
During the long trips, trains sometimes stop for more than the usual 2 minutes, which means that everybody gets out to strech the legs, make their little children run around (so they will be tired and sleep) and buy food. This picture was taken during one stop somewhere in Siberia.